Since 1904, Louis Cartier (Louis Cartier) conceived a Santos watch for aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, the technology and design have experienced countless Change, but this revolutionary watch is still out of date. The new Santos series launched this year has a striking resemblance to the original model. The true classic is nothing more than that.
New Santos series watch, released at SIHH 2018, with quick-change system
The river was flowing quietly under the bridge in Paris. Humans stepped on the surface of the moon and accustomed to crossing the Atlantic for hours. Tesla sports cars flew to Mars. If you go through today, Pierre Cartier and Louis Cartier, the grandsons of Cartier’s founders, will not believe their eyes, and the visionary Brazilian pilot Albert Santos Dumont is no exception. However, all three of them lack imagination. They have the ideals and ambitions pursued for life. Their fate is closely related to one of the most attractive revolutions in the history of time measurement: the invention of modern watches.
From the Air France Club to the first men’s watch
In 1904, Paris, France. The Eiffel Tower is still new, and in this city planned by Baron Ottoman, you can smell the excitement in the air. At the beginning of the aviation industry, Paris was at the forefront. Leaders of industry, academia, sports, and art traveled frequently to the capital’s influence circle, and a new society was gradually taking shape in front of the Cartier brothers. Soon, Louis Cartier became interested in aviation. He often consulted the Air France Club Commissioner for the latest developments. The latter is responsible for flight timing, judgment records, and attention to the potential of different engines and fuels.
To familiarize himself with the air, Albert Santos Dumont ate in a chair several feet high, circa 1900
It was here that in this club of passionate visionaries, Louis Cartier met Albert Santos Dumont. The Cartier archives show us the maverick side of the aviation pioneer-in a photo, he sits in a long-legged chair and dine with friends to suit the feel of an aircraft. By interacting with Albert Santos Dumont, Louis Cartier understands the situation faced by early pilots and their needs. On the basis of precise understanding, the first Cartier timepiece designed for men to be worn on the wrist was born in 1904. Function dominates the creation of new watches, and it provides a clear answer to a seemingly simple question: how to measure flight time and monitor fuel consumption when you can’t let go of the control of the aircraft and look around for pocket watches Consume? The answer is to wear the watch on your wrist! Designed and manufactured for Santos Dumont, this watch began to be sold to the public in 1911. It not only met the needs of early flight pioneers, but also laid the foundation for contemporary watchmaking.
Cartier Santos Dumont watch, 1912
Fusion of form and function
From a design perspective, the original Santos carried all the features of a Cartier watch. The unique silhouette is reminiscent of the steel bridge across the Seine and the monuments around the capital. The square bezel with decorative screws, the stylized Roman numerals, the orbital minute ring, the crown set with convex sapphire, and the leather strap … form and function, elegance and practicality are perfectly combined here. Other equally recognizable designs came out one after another-turtle, barrel and tank-the Santos series marked the beginning of the fantasy adventure of Cartier’s watch.
Cartier Santos gold watch with automatic movement, circa 1978
In 1978, Santos re-launched in a bold combination of gold and steel-the Santos watch released at SIHH 2018 is very similar. For 40 years, the squares and straight lines borrowed from Parisian architecture remain unchanged. The eight screws were retained, and the Cartier designer extended the bezel slightly to harmonize the lines between the case and the bracelet. The core of the watch is designed for modernity: the 1847 MC self-winding movement has central hours, minutes, seconds, and date display (at 6 o’clock), and uses nickel-phosphorous parts. It also has a barrier made of paramagnetic alloy, which has excellent anti-magnetic performance .
New Santos watch, 2018
With the advent of the Santos watch, the key is to be able to wear it, so it is appropriate to focus on this feature in 2018. The new Santos watch uses the patented QuickSwitch system. Whether steel or gold, calfskin or crocodile leather, bracelet or strap, it can be disassembled at the touch of a button and replaced at will according to the wearer’s mood or needs. In addition, the metal bracelet can be adjusted by the hidden button, and the length of the bracelet can be easily adjusted without using tools. This super-practical invention reminds us that one of the long-lasting secrets of Santos is to keep up with the times as always. Under the bridge in Paris, the river is still flowing quietly. From the original revolutionary watch to today’s interchangeable chain, Santos has gone through decades of baptism in elegance and has always been young....
Longines, a Swiss watch brand, has a long and proud connection with the flying industry. For the first time in 1927, Charles Lindbergh drove the plane across the Atlantic without a stop; Longines was responsible for the timing. To commemorate this feat, Longines has established the Longines Lindbergh Award. The American pilot made this flight feat for the first time on May 21, 1927, and his grandson Erik Lindbergh became the first winner of the Longines consecutive draw.
In May 2002, the 75th anniversary of the above-mentioned historic flight, 37-year-old Eli Lianba followed in the footsteps of his distinguished grandfather. He drove a single pilot across the Atlantic on the same route and flew from Long Island, New York to Paris near Paris. Bourget. Eli Lianba is both an artist and a designer, and has participated in a number of ‘bold plans’ related to the field of aviation tourism and ecological aircraft. He is also a warrior fighting adversity, overcoming serious health problems.
May 21 (Monday) is the anniversary of Charles Lianba’s flight. Longines chooses to hold the Longines Lianhua Awarding Ceremony at a special dinner held at the New York Times headquarters on this day. The New York Times also actively reported the flying feat of Charles Lianba. At the dinner, representatives of the flying industry media and members of the Lianba family gathered together. Juan-CarlosCapeli, Vice President and International Marketing Director of Longines, also recalled the historical origins of the brand and the flying industry.
Mr. Capelli also presented a LindberghHourAngle Watch to Elite. This is a watch designed by Charles Lianba and developed by Longines shortly after this first non-stop flight feat, symbolizing Longines’ support for aviation pioneers, and the brand’s support for Charles Lianba. close relationship. After flying across the Atlantic in 1927, the adventurer approached Longines to create a watch that could meet his flight needs. A serial commemorative watch was born and has become a true watchmaking classic today.
That year, Raymond Orteig awarded Charles Lian with US $ 25,000 to commend him for being the first pilot to cross the Atlantic. The Longines Liancon also referred to this award and set the prize to US $ 25,000. The Longines Awards are awarded annually to those who possess Charles Pioneer’s pioneering spirit and who possess the elegant style and outstanding performance that Longines cherishes. The award winners were selected by a jury consisting of Juan-Carlos Capelli, Vice President and International Marketing Director of Longines, Stephanie Lachat, PhD in History, Bernard Decre, President of the ‘Alarecherchede oiseaublanc’ Association, and Co-founder of the ‘SpiritofSt-Louis2’ Program SpirosBouas....
Recently, Patek Philippe announced that it will expand its store in Bond Street, London. The company has reached an agreement with Auror Holdings Limited to take over its 16 leased New Bond Street stores. This newly opened store, together with the 15 existing stores, will further give Patek Philippe customers a whole new experience. However, the date of the new store’s renovation and the official opening date has yet to be determined.
‘The Patek Philippe is an excellent opportunity to raise awareness and image, because Bond Street is an important strategic retail place for world-renowned watches,’ said Mark Horn, general manager of Patek Philippe in the UK. ‘We are excited to be adding stores on Bond Street, which will further increase customer expectations and bring more experience to Patek Philippe,’ said salon director Ed Tren.
Since 1980, Patek Philippe has opened a flagship store on Bond Street. Although initially a boutique managed by a Swiss watch, in 2005, Patek Philippe acquired its old store and opened its own London salon. In 2008, Patek Philippe’s store in London was fully upgraded and renovated, becoming the UK’s largest watch salon....
Glittering diamonds, coupled with the oval appearance, will remind people of crystal clear water droplets. Today I will introduce four ladies watches with the above characteristics.
Girard Perregaux CATSEYE 80484D-53A-761-BK7B
In the minds of the girls, the most beautiful things must be those that are fresh and free of impurities. Girard Perregaux watches will undoubtedly bring them the highest visual enjoyment. The launch of this watch series called CAT’S EYE can capture the hearts of girls like a cat’s eye.
The 80484D-53A-761-BK7B watch in the CAT’SEYE series, which is mainly made of white gold, uses Girard Perregaux GP03300-0044 automatic winding movement, and the 28 stones in it are as inspiring and intoxicating as galaxies The most classic oval design is the biggest feature of this series. The all-white dial with mother-of-pearl dial design makes people seem to see the light reflected by the water drops in the sun.
White Collar Choice
Audemars Piguet 77301ST.ZZ.D015CR.01 watch
Audemars Piguet’s designs have always been unique and bold, even more so in contemporary collections. It is attractive to stop in an unusual shape, but in the end you will find its value. As a brand with a lofty status in the Swiss watch industry, it has always impressed the white-collar workers with the most precise craftsmanship in pursuit of efficiency.
It has a solid and empty ring-shaped case, and its black hour marker design is also very characteristic: half of it is Arabic numerals, and the other half is Roman numerals. The gray and white dials are simple and layered, and the leather strap conveys a smart signal at work. Only the diamond inlaid on the stainless steel case exudes light in a low-key, looking far away, like a drop of water condensation.
Elegant lady’s choice
Chopard HappySport 278418-3002 watch
If you are not satisfied with the green and casual style of watch, and desire to have your own uniqueness at the dinner or dinner, then you must choose an elegant and generous watch. This watch from Chopard meets all your needs. The Happy Sport series allows diamonds to move in the watch, round and calm.
This model number 278418-3002 is made of stainless steel, and its pure surface has a very strong gloss. The blue hands and hour markers add a touch of temperament to it. The petite dial can better embody the luxury, and the diamonds in any movement are like raindrops falling from the sky, completely combining the movement and beauty.
Royal Choice Honored Luxury
Breguet Queen of Naples 8978BB / 58 / 974D00D
Breguet watches are complex and elegant in design, especially the Queen of Naples series, each of which is a supreme boutique. It was inspired by the bracelet-type watch designed by Abraham Louis Breguet for Napoleon’s sister Naples Queen Caroline in her early years. The history worn by many royal nobles has also made Baodi able to bear this heavy responsibility.
The watch numbered 8978BB / 58 / 974D00D, belonging to the Queen of Naples series to be recommended today, has attracted all honorable women with its superb craftsmanship of 54 gems. And its design is also very distinctive. Combining complex functions, it has a dove-shaped automatic movement, an 18K white gold egg-shaped case, a pit-shaped bezel, a bezel set with 30 diamonds, and a natural white mother-of-pearl dial. . A diamond is set at the 12 o’clock window to indicate whether the timekeeping device is on or off.
These diamond watches are expensive. But who can deny its charm? From the perspective of art, how can their value be measured only by price.
November 19, 2013 to April 6, 2014. A new perspective on Latin American photography from 1960 to the present. This exhibition brings together 72 artists from 11 countries. The Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art will jointly host the “Latin America 1960-2013 Exhibition (América Latina 1960-2013 Exhibition) with the Museo Amparo Museum in Puebla, Mexico. The relationship between photographic images. Reveals the diverse photographic methods of different artists and his different uses of the photographic medium. This special exhibition will provide the audience with an opportunity to learn more about the history of Latin America and rediscover these rare exhibitions in Europe. Works of important artists.
Latin America: a fascinating continent
For hundreds of years. At the same time, I feel infinite mystery; perhaps because it was once regarded as a new world, so it always exudes a strong exotic atmosphere. Today, Latin America has always been fascinated by her followers. Contemporary Latin American culture has received a lot of attention. But people Rarely explore the historical background related to its cultural achievements. The Latin American 1960-2013 exhibition covers the historical period from 1960-the second year of the Cuban Revolution-to today. Many Latin American countries have political and economic periods during this period. Extremely unstable, there have been a series of revolutionary movements and military regimes, as well as guerrilla activities and democratic transitions. The exhibition explores the phenomenon of the interaction between text and video in Latin American art over the past 50 years. Through the eyes of the artist, I unfolded animated volumes of this turbulent historical period.
Photography and text in an era of historical change
This art has a close relationship with literature, text and video. For example: 19th century educators, there is no shortage of precedents in Latin American art and culture. Avant-garde concept artist and writer Lui Camnitz has always insisted on the importance of citations. Simon Bolívar (Simón Bolívar tutor Simon Rodríguez used the official dictionary as a tool for struggle and resistance; The concrete poet of the 1950s also used text as a visual element in his works; Jorg LuiBorg Pablo Neruda (PabloNeruda, Octavio Paz, and other writers The cultural influence is even more widespread. This long literary tradition has also greatly influenced the visual culture of Latin America. In the early 1960s, many artists discovered that the combination of text and video in his works opened up a particularly rich experiment for him. This method allows him to express in an easier way the urgent needs that his country is facing, and to pass on his growing thoughts against tyranny. Perhaps this is because photography is a fast and true record of reality Media, text is a way to expand or change the meaning of an image. Artists use this Tension between the two media, efforts to restore the complex and violent world around them, sometimes can avoid review of today’s artists continue to combine photography and text to explore notions of territory, memory and identity.
Diverse Artists and Artistic Techniques
Show me how Latin American artists use a variety of colorful ways to explore their reality with new modes of expression and reproduction. These works go beyond traditional photographic printing concepts and involve a variety of media, including photo offset printing, screen printing, collages, films, performances, videos, installations, and more. In the work ‘To be continued … Latin American puzzles’ ToBeContinuLatinAmericanPuzzl, Brazilian artist Regina Silveira (Using pictures cut from magazines and travel guides) to make a huge puzzle mural to explore Latin America Antiquated ideas. Venezuelan artist Paul Gasparini (Paolo Gasparini uses more traditional photography methods to capture the discordant visual identity brought about by rapid urban development. Argentine artist Juan Carlos Romero (Juan Carlo Romero’s work ‘Violence’ Violencia uses electronic printing to reproduce pictures in popular prints, condemning raging violence in Argentina. Colombian artist Juan Manuel Echavarría video shot by ‘Gray Mouth’ Bocadeceniza A group of people, revealing how the artist uses the tension between the two to explore geographically conceptual Latin America. The exhibition is divided into four parts: territory, city, notice and resistance, memory and identity. Latin America 1960-2013 exhibition Take this combination of text and image as the context. Songs and songs about his guerrilla violence related to personal experience.
Discover outstanding artists
The Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art commissioned a Paraguayan photographer and director, Fredi Casco, to create a movie. Interviewed 30 of the 72 participating artists. These exclusive interviews are of great historical value and express the voices of the participating artists .Freddie Casco traveled around Latin America. A rare and in-depth interpretation of the creative process and background of each artist. More than 500 works were collected in the Latin American 1960-2013 exhibition, highlighting The emotional affinities of Latin America spanning times and countries show a variety of rich sounds and diverse visual languages. The exhibition chronicles the important heritage of Latin American artists and shows how he influences the creative circles around him. Audiences far beyond the Latin American continent. A large-scale work from Peru, Colombia, Venezuela, and Paraguay demonstrates the importance of the art circle outside the mainstream channels, allowing the audience to more fully and vividly understand his contemporary art field. influences....
NIVREL (Nieve) is a traditional Swiss watch. After being acquired by German jewellery watchmaker GreedHofer in 1993, the design of the surface is infused with endless design elements. Its unique feature is the percentage Baiquan’s manual engraving technology is introduced on the surface design with a diameter of only 42mm, which fully displays the unique style of combining art and machinery. The questionnaire, tourbillon and perpetual calendar are hailed as the invention of the three complicated watch movements of the century. Lifio’s masterpiece is the prestigious ‘five-minute questionnaire’.
This is a relatively unpopular brand. Most of them use ETA cores modified by ETA or KELEK technology factory DUBOISDEPRAZ (the same door as Breitling movements). It is equipped with a DD core questionnaire (also changed from ETA). Ask for a cheap watch. I highly respect its LEMANIA 8810 core automatic watch. 8810 is a well-known ultra-thin automatic movement with double barrels. It was originally developed by Longines and sold to LEMANIA. It is now used by the SWATCH Group as the base of Breguet automatic watches. The big three-handed automatic models are all at the bottom of the 8810. In the past few years, Longines bought a few modified gold watches and introduced the L-990 limited edition commemorative gold watch, which once caused people to think about Longines’ own products in the early years. 8810 is equal to ETA2892, Jaeger-LeCoultre 889, plus FP, Girard Perregaux 3000 (somewhat inferior quality), they almost occupy most of the Swiss premium brand automatic watch core. In the past, a few watch factories such as Yubao also used some 8810, but these brand watches are more expensive. NIVREL just pulled it down from the altar and made affordable steel watches, so that friends with small budgets had the opportunity to contact high-end cores....
Today, we will analyze and detail Patek Philippe Calatrava’s existing models, and conclude this series of three parts. I believe that after reading the first two articles ‘Foundation Blueprint Ref.96’ and ‘Important Models in History’, everyone will agree that the humble and low-key Calatrava is one of the most iconic formal watches in watchmaking history and is shaping the entire Played a major role in the formal watch category. It is incredible that for about 85 years since its introduction in 1932, the classic design of the Calatrava series has remained basically unchanged. Although we have seen many changes over the years, the core principles of the Calatrava collection are the same, which is good news for antique watch enthusiasts and new buyers.
According to Patek Philippe’s official website, the brand currently offers 34 different models of Calatrava watches (including different materials, excluding complications). However, the Calatrava classification on Patek Philippe’s official website only includes basic function models, but the series also includes more complex models, such as the Ref. 5235G three-pin first-line calendar watch and the Ref. 5524G travel time watch. This article will focus on six highly representative special models to showcase the uniformity and diversity of the Patek Philippe Calatrava collection.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196
Among the existing Calatrava series product lines, the two models most similar to the original Ref.96 watch are Ref. 5196 and Ref. 5296, which can be seen from the reference number also applied to “96”. The Ref.5196 watch is 37 mm in diameter, slightly larger and more modern, a perfect example of elegance and simplicity. Despite the larger size, the case still follows the same design, with a ‘coin rim’ flat bezel and integrated lugs. The dial layout is basically the same as the original Ref.96 watch, with the central toffee hour and minute hands, prism faceted hour markers and attached small seconds.
The difference is that the small seconds dial of the Ref. 5196 watch is located above the 6 o’clock hour mark, while the small seconds dial of the original Ref. 96 watch is embedded between the 5 o’clock and 7 o’clock hours. It is equipped with the Caliber 215 PS manual-winding movement, which is only 2.55 mm thick and has a stable vibration frequency of 28,800 times / hour (4 Hz). The Ref.5196 watch is available in gold, white, rose, and platinum. The platinum version is equipped with a silver-gray two-tone dial and decorated with gold Breguet-applied hour markers (reminiscent of several versions of Ref.570 wrist Table), the small seconds dial also added digital scale circle, slightly different from the other three versions.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5296 watch
The Ref.5296 is available in four versions, combining two case materials and two dial designs. The Ref.5296-010 is a reproduction of the essence of the original Ref.96 watch with a central seconds hand. Of course, the Ref. 5296 watch is equipped with Caliber 324 S C automatic winding movement, and is equipped with Gyromax® balance wheel and Spiromax® hairspring. Like the Ref. 5196, the dial of the Ref. 5296 is decorated with central hour and minute hands and prismatic faceted hour markers.
Compared with Ref. 5196, the main improvement of Ref. 5296 is the addition of a date display window at 3 o’clock, and it is clear that this is not available in the original Ref. 96. The Ref.5296-001 watch is equipped with a silver-gray two-tone dial, which uses a very stylish subdivision design, and is decorated with blue hour markers and minute and second hands. According to Patek Philippe, the design of this watch was inspired by the Ref.96 SC watch, which was introduced in 1934. The Ref.5296-010 and Ref.5296-001 are both 38mm in diameter and are available in white and rose gold versions.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5116 and Ref. 5119
The Ref. 5116 and Ref. 5119 watches are modern manifestations of the Ref. 3520. The Ref.3520 was launched in 1973 and was the first Calatrava watch to be equipped with a Paris studded bezel; ever since, the Paris stud retouching has been inextricably linked with the Calatrava collection. The Ref. 5116 and Ref. 5119 are both 36 mm in diameter and are equipped with a Caliber 215 PS manual winding movement (same as the Ref. 5196).
The Ref. 5119 is available in yellow, white and rose gold, with a white lacquered dial and Roman numerals. The Ref.5116 watch is only available in rose gold, with a pure enamel dial and Roman numerals, which makes this watch more unique than other models (of course, the corresponding price is also more expensive).
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6006G watch
The Ref.6006G watch is one of Patek Philippe’s new products released at Baselworld 2017, and it is also the third generation of the series that debuted in the 1990s. Before the Ref.6006G watch, it was the Ref.6000 watch launched in 2005; before that, it was the Ref.5000 watch launched in 1991. Without a doubt, the Ref.6006G watch is one of the most unorthodox models in the Calatrava line. The dial layout of this watch is very unique. The hours, minutes and date are displayed by hands, and three layers of corresponding scale rings are provided from the inside to the outside.
Another unique feature of this watch is the small seconds dial, which is unusually placed between 4 and 5 o’clock, due to the built-in Calibre 240 PS automatic winding movement, which is ushered in this year. 40 Anniversary celebration. The contrast between the black and white dials is clear and easy to read, still revealing the Bauhaus philosophy that guides the design of all Calatrava series watches. The Ref.6006G watch has a white gold case with a diameter of 39 mm. It is very modern and wearable by today’s standards, but it may not have the same timeless charm as other Calatrava models.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180 / 1R skeleton watch
As mentioned above, 2017 marks the 40th anniversary of the Patek Philippe Calibre 240 PS automatic winding movement. As part of the celebration, the brand also launched the new Calatrava series Ref.5180 / 1R skeleton watch at the Basel International Watch & Jewellery Show, placing the movement in a place where everyone can see and appreciate it. The movement parts, even the bridge above the main barrel, have been carefully hollowed out by Patek Philippe craftsmen, revealing the winding spring under the Calatrava cross pattern. It takes more than a week to achieve such hollow transparency, and then the engraver spends more than 130 hours to polish the delicate structure of the vines and arabesque for the remaining structure of the movement.
The frame of the barrel around the Calatrava cross is engraved with the Patek Philippe Genève brand logo, and the cross itself is retouched. Next, the entire movement that has been hollowed out needs to be plated with rose gold and then polished to match the case and bracelet. Finally, the entire movement is fitted with an 18K rose gold retaining ring. The ring frame is hollowed out into 12 spokes and serves as a time marker. Ref. 5180 / 1R may not be the humble and understated Calatrava watch we are familiar with, but it is definitely an amazing work of art.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5524G Time Traveler Watch
Finally, let’s talk about the most controversial Calatrava (or even Patek Philippe) timepiece in recent years: the Ref. 5524G Time Traveler Watch. Once launched at Baselworld 2015, this watch sparked debate. For many people, it is difficult to think of it as a Calatrava watch, because the Ref.5524G case (applied in 18K white gold instead of stainless steel) is 42 mm in diameter, has dual time zone and day and night display functions, and is equipped with a safety latch. Adjustment button. In fact, military wind watches also have precedents in the history of Patek Philippe. Military wind dials can be seen in the variants of the original Ref.96 watch.
At the same time, from Ref. 5524G we can still see many Bauhaus elements, such as unique fonts, overall design with ease of use and practicality. It may not look like the traditional Calatrava watch we are familiar with, but still follow many of the same principles and specifications. The Ref.5524G watch is equipped with the Calibre CH 324 S C FUS automatic winding movement, which provides a 45-hour power reserve and is decorated with the Patek Philippe brand imprint, ensuring exquisite finishing and high precision. As for whether Ref.5524G is a true Calatrava watch, I believe that after reading the series, every watchmate has his own answer.
One of the Patek Philippe Calatrava series founding blueprints Ref.96
Patek Philippe Calatrava Series Second Important Model in History