Today, we will analyze and detail Patek Philippe Calatrava’s existing models, and conclude this series of three parts. I believe that after reading the first two articles ‘Foundation Blueprint Ref.96’ and ‘Important Models in History’, everyone will agree that the humble and low-key Calatrava is one of the most iconic formal watches in watchmaking history and is shaping the entire Played a major role in the formal watch category. It is incredible that for about 85 years since its introduction in 1932, the classic design of the Calatrava series has remained basically unchanged. Although we have seen many changes over the years, the core principles of the Calatrava collection are the same, which is good news for antique watch enthusiasts and new buyers.
According to Patek Philippe’s official website, the brand currently offers 34 different models of Calatrava watches (including different materials, excluding complications). However, the Calatrava classification on Patek Philippe’s official website only includes basic function models, but the series also includes more complex models, such as the Ref. 5235G three-pin first-line calendar watch and the Ref. 5524G travel time watch. This article will focus on six highly representative special models to showcase the uniformity and diversity of the Patek Philippe Calatrava collection.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196
Among the existing Calatrava series product lines, the two models most similar to the original Ref.96 watch are Ref. 5196 and Ref. 5296, which can be seen from the reference number also applied to “96”. The Ref.5196 watch is 37 mm in diameter, slightly larger and more modern, a perfect example of elegance and simplicity. Despite the larger size, the case still follows the same design, with a ‘coin rim’ flat bezel and integrated lugs. The dial layout is basically the same as the original Ref.96 watch, with the central toffee hour and minute hands, prism faceted hour markers and attached small seconds.
The difference is that the small seconds dial of the Ref. 5196 watch is located above the 6 o’clock hour mark, while the small seconds dial of the original Ref. 96 watch is embedded between the 5 o’clock and 7 o’clock hours. It is equipped with the Caliber 215 PS manual-winding movement, which is only 2.55 mm thick and has a stable vibration frequency of 28,800 times / hour (4 Hz). The Ref.5196 watch is available in gold, white, rose, and platinum. The platinum version is equipped with a silver-gray two-tone dial and decorated with gold Breguet-applied hour markers (reminiscent of several versions of Ref.570 wrist Table), the small seconds dial also added digital scale circle, slightly different from the other three versions.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5296 watch
The Ref.5296 is available in four versions, combining two case materials and two dial designs. The Ref.5296-010 is a reproduction of the essence of the original Ref.96 watch with a central seconds hand. Of course, the Ref. 5296 watch is equipped with Caliber 324 S C automatic winding movement, and is equipped with Gyromax® balance wheel and Spiromax® hairspring. Like the Ref. 5196, the dial of the Ref. 5296 is decorated with central hour and minute hands and prismatic faceted hour markers.
Compared with Ref. 5196, the main improvement of Ref. 5296 is the addition of a date display window at 3 o’clock, and it is clear that this is not available in the original Ref. 96. The Ref.5296-001 watch is equipped with a silver-gray two-tone dial, which uses a very stylish subdivision design, and is decorated with blue hour markers and minute and second hands. According to Patek Philippe, the design of this watch was inspired by the Ref.96 SC watch, which was introduced in 1934. The Ref.5296-010 and Ref.5296-001 are both 38mm in diameter and are available in white and rose gold versions.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5116 and Ref. 5119
The Ref. 5116 and Ref. 5119 watches are modern manifestations of the Ref. 3520. The Ref.3520 was launched in 1973 and was the first Calatrava watch to be equipped with a Paris studded bezel; ever since, the Paris stud retouching has been inextricably linked with the Calatrava collection. The Ref. 5116 and Ref. 5119 are both 36 mm in diameter and are equipped with a Caliber 215 PS manual winding movement (same as the Ref. 5196).
The Ref. 5119 is available in yellow, white and rose gold, with a white lacquered dial and Roman numerals. The Ref.5116 watch is only available in rose gold, with a pure enamel dial and Roman numerals, which makes this watch more unique than other models (of course, the corresponding price is also more expensive).
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6006G watch
The Ref.6006G watch is one of Patek Philippe’s new products released at Baselworld 2017, and it is also the third generation of the series that debuted in the 1990s. Before the Ref.6006G watch, it was the Ref.6000 watch launched in 2005; before that, it was the Ref.5000 watch launched in 1991. Without a doubt, the Ref.6006G watch is one of the most unorthodox models in the Calatrava line. The dial layout of this watch is very unique. The hours, minutes and date are displayed by hands, and three layers of corresponding scale rings are provided from the inside to the outside.
Another unique feature of this watch is the small seconds dial, which is unusually placed between 4 and 5 o’clock, due to the built-in Calibre 240 PS automatic winding movement, which is ushered in this year. 40 Anniversary celebration. The contrast between the black and white dials is clear and easy to read, still revealing the Bauhaus philosophy that guides the design of all Calatrava series watches. The Ref.6006G watch has a white gold case with a diameter of 39 mm. It is very modern and wearable by today’s standards, but it may not have the same timeless charm as other Calatrava models.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180 / 1R skeleton watch
As mentioned above, 2017 marks the 40th anniversary of the Patek Philippe Calibre 240 PS automatic winding movement. As part of the celebration, the brand also launched the new Calatrava series Ref.5180 / 1R skeleton watch at the Basel International Watch & Jewellery Show, placing the movement in a place where everyone can see and appreciate it. The movement parts, even the bridge above the main barrel, have been carefully hollowed out by Patek Philippe craftsmen, revealing the winding spring under the Calatrava cross pattern. It takes more than a week to achieve such hollow transparency, and then the engraver spends more than 130 hours to polish the delicate structure of the vines and arabesque for the remaining structure of the movement.
The frame of the barrel around the Calatrava cross is engraved with the Patek Philippe Genève brand logo, and the cross itself is retouched. Next, the entire movement that has been hollowed out needs to be plated with rose gold and then polished to match the case and bracelet. Finally, the entire movement is fitted with an 18K rose gold retaining ring. The ring frame is hollowed out into 12 spokes and serves as a time marker. Ref. 5180 / 1R may not be the humble and understated Calatrava watch we are familiar with, but it is definitely an amazing work of art.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5524G Time Traveler Watch
Finally, let’s talk about the most controversial Calatrava (or even Patek Philippe) timepiece in recent years: the Ref. 5524G Time Traveler Watch. Once launched at Baselworld 2015, this watch sparked debate. For many people, it is difficult to think of it as a Calatrava watch, because the Ref.5524G case (applied in 18K white gold instead of stainless steel) is 42 mm in diameter, has dual time zone and day and night display functions, and is equipped with a safety latch. Adjustment button. In fact, military wind watches also have precedents in the history of Patek Philippe. Military wind dials can be seen in the variants of the original Ref.96 watch.
At the same time, from Ref. 5524G we can still see many Bauhaus elements, such as unique fonts, overall design with ease of use and practicality. It may not look like the traditional Calatrava watch we are familiar with, but still follow many of the same principles and specifications. The Ref.5524G watch is equipped with the Calibre CH 324 S C FUS automatic winding movement, which provides a 45-hour power reserve and is decorated with the Patek Philippe brand imprint, ensuring exquisite finishing and high precision. As for whether Ref.5524G is a true Calatrava watch, I believe that after reading the series, every watchmate has his own answer.
One of the Patek Philippe Calatrava series founding blueprints Ref.96
Patek Philippe Calatrava Series Second Important Model in History